SWAP Is Wrapping Up

I stopped posting about my SWAP in March to spend all my free time sewing with hopes of finishing.  At one point the light at the end of the tunnel was visible by first changing option 2 (two dresses) for option 1 (tops and bottoms) and being allowed to use 3 pre-sewn or purchased items. 

I've had these two skirts hanging in my closet for too many years. They're are both made from a soft double knit fabric.

The problem with them was that they were too long (at my ankle) and too tight in the waist.  If I altered them at the waist instead of the hem, I could make them wearable.  I started the alteration of the black skirt by marking 10 inches from the top and cutting the fabric away.

As a result, the waist became too large, so I tapered the side seams from the hem to the waist using my serger.  The original waistband was treated in an interesting way. 



I was excited about reproducing it, but realized that if I ever wanted to take the waist in or out, it would become quite a process, so I went with serging the raw edge and encasing the 1 inch elastic.  Here's a before and after photo.



I repeated the same process for the red skirt, except I made the length a bit longer.

At this point I had three completed skirts, two knit sleeveless tops, and one pair of slacks partially completed.

My next project was the KWIK SEW 3494 blouse made of silk.  I avoid knots on silk as much as possible.  A knot wears away at the fabric.  This is how I work my darts. 

My secret for working with silk is to use lots of pins.  I enclosed some of the seams with french seams.

Truthfully, this is my favorite piece.  It's soft and comfortable.  The hem looks crooked, but it is just the way it hangs on the hanger.

At this point I picked up my McCall's 7883 gold charmeuse blouse to finish it up and also cut out a black charmeuse blouse using the same pattern but with a different neckline.  The black blouse went together quickly, because I had already dealt with the fitting issues.  I had enough gold fabric to cut out a silk camisole to wear under my knit tops.  I purchased a black camisole for my final piece.  Now, I had exactly one week before the end of April.  I convinced myself that I could make the deadline.  This was when the light began to fade.

For some crazy reason, the sleeves of the two blouses were shorter at the bottom front edge than at the bottom inside edge.   I had enough fabric to recut the sleeves, but I needed to think about the problem in order to solve it.

I also had to redo the neck top stitching, because they were puckering.  They also needed button and buttonholes. 

I only had the straps of the cami to turn right side out and attach.

The bottom line is that I didn't make the deadline.  Two people did, and congratulations to them.  You have to be dedicated and commited to finish, and they were.  Be proud!

SWAP 2011 - Week 7 of 17

I don't usually make the same pattern twice.  The challenge becomes lost.  I have no TNT.  However, I thought it would be very clever on my part to reproduce Vogue 2987.  My thinking was again that this should go together really quickly, since I worked out all the kinks.  I'd have another SWAP top in no time at all.  I didn't take into consideration the difference in fabric.  

This time around I used a black rayon jersey.  The fabric has a lot of stretch, but that wasn't my first problem.  I very carefully layed out each piece, was sure I had it right.  Only when I went to put the top together did I realize the gathered side was on the opposite side from the last time.  I did figure out what went wrong.  The back was set on the fold, but the right and left sides were layed singularly.  I had the paper pattern right side up, but the fabric was inside out.  Duh! 

The secondary problem was the stretching.  I had to re-do the shoulder seams three times.  I finally read about the differential feed on my serger.  By adjusting it, the shoulders went together nicely.  I took Sandra Betzina's advice from More Fabric Savvy to use a walking foot for topstitching.  I bought the foot last year to prepare for making a faux Chanel jacket this year.  What a pleasant experience.  The foot was a dream to work with.  If I hadn't adjusted the differential feed or used the walking foot, this piece would have gone in the trash.  Instead I have this very soft, comfortable top.

SWAP 2011 - Week 6 of 17

I resolved my problem with the sleeveless top of Vogue 2987.  I decided to treat the stretch lace and the stretch lining as one.  I took apart the shoulder seams and placed each lace piece with its appropriate lining piece.  Literally only three pieces for this top.  I first serged the shoulder seams with stay tape sandwiched between the seams.  The stay tape keeps the shoulders from stretching.  I then serged the neck edge and the arm openings. 

This allowed me to cut off 1/4" of fabric while finishing these seams.  This left 3/8" seams to be turned into the inside of the top. 

The outside was topstitched . 

I really thought this top would go together in no time.  Not so.  I changed my serger threads back and forth.  Nude when sewing the shoulder and side seams and black when serging the pieces together and topsitching. 

I broke my left serger needle four different times, but can't figure out why.  Luckily while not doing the seams, but at the end.  I think I am pulling the thread tail while taking out the garment and the needle springs back hitting the looper.  Sewing with knits, and a lace knit at that, is the technique I was trying to master. 

SWAP 2011 - Week 4 of 17

I started this week off by meeting up with the talented Summerset and her children.  We had conversations about various things along with sewing.  Summerset wore her lovely faux fur jacket, which she had just completed.  We finished our visit by stopping at Fabric Fix in Manchester, NH, where she helped convince me to purchase this rayon/silk burnout velvet for a possible piece for my SWAP.   There is no blue in the piece.  It is just black and gold.  Good choice, Summerset!

I also purchased ten yards of black grosgrain ribbon @ 50 cents a yard for waistband usage.

This week I tweaked the fit on the Kwik Sew skirt by taking some of the curve from the side seams and finished binding those seams.  Another new technique was a waistband backed with grosgrain ribbon.  I followed the instructions from Roberto Cabrera/Patricia Flaherty Meyers' book, "Classic Tailoring Techniques, A Construction Guide For Women's Wear" and a favorite of mine by Claire B Shaeffer, "Couture Sewing".   Here is the result before I tack down the edges, back stitch the bottom edge of the ribbon, and apply a closure.
 

This makes for a very sturdy waistband, and I plan on doing this more in the future.  There is quite a curve to the bottom of the skirt back.  I had to pre-gather the hem before binding the hem edge.

To reduce bulk in the hem caused by the seam binding, I graded each seam.

The hem is partially sewn using a blind catch stitch.

I am classifying this project as the project on its way out.  I enjoyed doing all the new techniques; however, they were time consuming.  My sewing goal is to more couture oriented.  A time constraint contest may not be the ideal time to do so many in one item, but it sure is making for a nice looking skirt. 

The Burda slacks is still the official project.  I've put it aside for awhile, but it's time to pick it back up and get it done.

I have a few items classified as the projects coming in.  I've been working muslins for:

     the Kwik Sew red jacquard silk blouse, and
     the McCalls silk charmeuse blouses in black and gold.

The Kwik Sew blouse is really ready to be cut.  I have a few adjustments to re-check for the charmeuse blouses.  Since I'm using the same pattern, I get two for one.  There is only about one week left in the month, and I haven't completed one whole garment yet.  I've been preparing for a work audit, which will happen tomorrow, after which I hope to step it up. 

As an aside, my toddler grandson is going to Colorado with my DD to visit his grandfather and uncle.  My DD and I went shopping for some things for him to take on the trip.  I couldn't resist these Toy Story cowboy boots,

and I have been laughing about them ever since.  My DS is just going to think they are the greatest, since he wears cowboy boots all the time.    Aren't these the cutest?

SWAP 2011 - Week 3 of 17

The beginning of the week started with me re-cutting the Burda slack back pattern, re-cutting the top of the slacks, re-doing darts, and re-stitching the strip. 

By the end of week, the Kwik Sew skirt joined the Burda slacks as another official project. 

Both now need:

                  final tweeking of the fit,
                  seam finishing,
                  waistbands,
                  hemming.

Still a lot to be accomplished.

One new technique used this week on the Burda skirt was making hong kong finished seams.  I used china silk.  It was tedious having to cut bias strips, then sewing the bias strips a quarter inch away from each seam edge, folding the bias back over the seam, tucking it behind each seam, edge stitching each one, and trimming the back side.  Each seam ended with five passes of stitching, but I like the look, and the way the seams hang on the front side.

Another new technique was inserting my first ever invisible zipper.  I've been putting this off successfully for years even though I wanted to learn how to do it.  I am a visual learner and really wanted someone to show me how.  I watched some on-line videos and researched the process.  I even discovered that I owned the correct foot to do this.  I practiced with a basting stitch on a piece of muslin. It took me a couple of tries to get the hang of it.  Proudly, it's done, and I plan on inserting another on the Kwik Sew blouse.    

SWAP 2011 - Week 2 of 17

I've mentioned before that I don't make one item at a time, but a few together.  It usualy ends up with one project on the way in (working muslin, fitting, cutting), one project on the way out (buttons, hemming), and one official project (the major sewing of conponents). 

This week I cut two muslins, one for the Burda slacks and one for the Kwik Sew skirt.  I sewed both muslins, analyzed fitting issues, and tweeked the patterns.

At the end of this week, the Kwik Sew skirt is the project coming in.  It's ready to be cut.

The Burda Slacks is the official project.  It's cut, and I couldn't wait to sew these up.  I sewed the back darts, sewed the back to the side strip, and pressed.  I installed the zipper by following these directions www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zipper.  This is the new technique on this item along with including a fly shield, which the directions didn't include.  It is a very simple, folded rectangle out of silk taffet a.  I  also finished the fly seams with a hong kong finish as a practice. 

The pattern has hip pockets.  I don't usually like hip pockets, but since the pockets are set a little forward, I decided to include them this time.  Why don't I like hip pockets?  My hips don't need more padding; and when I put stuff in there, the "bumps" are unattractive.  However, I will admit that pockets are handy. 

As I attemped to sew the front to the side strip, I noticed something seriously wrong.  I made the side back adjustment too long.  Luckily, too long, not too short.  I ended today by tweeking the pattern again, removing the side strip from the back, picking the threads from the seams, and pressing them flat. 

SWAP 2011 - Week 1 of 17

I've been sick all week trying to get through work everyday.  I
    
     received my china silk lining, silk organza interfacing, and
          silk chiffon order from Vogue Fabrics;

     shopped for thread, zippers, sewing needles, embroidery
          floss, and buttons at Jo-Anns;

     traced Burda slacks, Kwik Sew 3494 - blouse and skirt;

     made fitting adjustments on the major pattern pieces for
          McCall's blouse 7888 and the Burda slacks.