Pattern: McCalls 4292 designed by Claire McCardell, an American designer.
Fabric: Beige/ivory/gold silk dupioni purchased from Delectable Mountain Cloth, Brattleboro, VT.
Underlining: Beige silk organza purchased on-line from Fashion Fabric Club.
Lining: Beige china silk purchased on-line from Fashion Fabric Club.
I made this sewing process more difficult than the pattern required. The dress is really simple and unlined. I decided to not only line the dress, but to underline it also. When sewing darts with an underlining, I mark the dart and the center line. The center is pinned, sewn with a basting stitch, folded on the basting line, then sewn in the usual way. This assures that the fabrics will not slip away from each other.
I hand stitched each seam open by attaching the seam to the underlining only using a whip stitch.
The dolman sleeves needed to be reinforced on the outside. I used my favorite foot, the edger.
The ties had wide seams. I baste stitched on the fold lines, pressed each fold, hand stitched using a blind stitch.
