Two Tops, One Pattern

I love the look of View C on pattern Vogue 8534.

However, I don't have enough yardage in my existing fabric stash.  I need 2 yards, 60 inches wide, but only have 1-1/2 yards, so I am planning on a two toned top.  The bow area and sleeves in a black tone on tone stripped knit with the base top in the cream and black scattered dotted ITY knit.  There is a seam that separates the two areas on the front, but not on the back.  I will add one on the back using the front as a guide.

Only 1-1/2 yards are needed for View A.  I will make that version first in the dotted coral/black ITY knit.  I've read reviews stating that this pattern runs a bit big.   This looks pretty uncomplicated for fit adjustments.

Two weeks ago I left my full time job.  I am excited to finally have the time to indulge in my many hobbies.  I haven't sewn in about three years except for a duvet cover, a western shirt, a six foot kite.  Not that I need another hobby, but I also discovered beading and silversmithing.

Last week I stumbled across a challenge called, "Sew Your Own Wardrobe For A Year" that I joined.  I am organizing my sewing room and looking through my stash for my first project.  Can't wait to get started.

All Chevron Panels Are Completed

The back and side panels

of the gray and white striped dress came out just as perfect as the front.  I couldn't be more pleased how this project is turning out.  This is how the perfection was accomplished.   



I had this small quilting ruler which has a bias line and a straight of grain line.  I placed the paper pattern piece on the bias of the fabric.  I placed the bias mark of the ruler on the straight of grain line of the paper pattern.  I  then made sure the straight of grain mark on the ruler lined up with a strip on the fabric.  I moved the paper pattern around until it was perfect.  Everything lined up nicely when it was time to sew the seams up.

I spent some time thinking about a lining for this dress.  At first, I wasn't going to add one, but you can see through the fabric.  I thought about batiste, but I want something that will slide against the fashion fabric.  I will probably choose either china silk or a rayon.  I still will have to order whatever I choose.  It gets discouraging not to just run to the fabric store.

I did some research on how I should lay out the lining - straight of grain or bias.  A good rule is to lay the lining as you did the garment, so bias it is.

One Panel At A Time

I had a block of time last night, so I decided to begin cutting the gray/white striped dress.  I've cut even and uneven plaids, even and uneven stripes before, but never a chevron effect.  I was a bit concerned.  One mistake could be disasterous.  Therefore, the decision to cut one panel at a time seemed like a good one.   Luckily, I have plenty of fabric, but I don't want to waste any of it. 

The first piece, CF panel, was easy.  I made sure the stripe went in the upward position.  I used the cut fabric as the pattern for the mirror image of the second side.  I managed to line up the stripes easy enough for perfection.  In preparing to sew CF, I carefully pinned each strip, so lots of pins were involved.  I attached my walking foot to my machine to avoid slipage.  Things went smoothly, and I was very pleased with the result.

My next challenge were the front two side panels.  Again, I cut one panel at a time.  A difference was making sure the stripe went in the downward position.  Again, one fabric side was used for the pattern of the other. 

Today I sewed the two side panels to the front.  Up to the bust line the stripes matched perfectly.  Impossible from then on.  I love top-stitching, but I changed my mind about adding it to this dress.  I don't want the stitching to distract from the bevels.  So far so good.

No Muslin This Time Around

I feel I do pretty well in the sewing arena, but I struggle in the fitting department.  It takes me awhile to figure it out.  Therefore, I usually prepare a muslin of an item I am planning on sewing.  Because I like to think I am getting better at fitting, I decided to make the top, version C of Simplicity 2917 before I start the actual dress.  I found this lovely batik rayon in my stash. 

The colors are coral red, peach, yellow, lilac, and gradations of such.

My main adjustment is for sloping shoulders.  I took two inches out across the back at the arm opening.  A second adjustment was a smig out of the waist curve for sad middle-aged issues.  My final adjustment is raising the waist, because I am short waisted.  I got the side and front pieces all cut and basted together; tried it on, but found it too big in the circumfrence (a good thing) and too high at the bust (a bad thing).  Hence my comment about struggling with fit.  Guess I haven't really made any progress. 

Rarely, do I send things to the trash.  I was tempted.  Instead I recut the waist curves a bit smaller.  In re-evaluating the sloping shoulder issue, I thumped myself on the head.  When making adjustments, if you take away somewhere, you have to put back somewhere else.  I realized that I didn't add the two inches across the arm in the front that I took out of the back.  That's why the bust was too high.  I asked myself why did I do two inches when in a previous garment I did one inch?  I have no answer, but I am going back to one.  Since I can't recut to make the pieces longer, I had to add one inch of fabric at both shoulders and basted it back up.  I don't think it looks too bad thanks to the batik.

The top and dress are designed with princess seams.  A princess seam is used instead of darts.  The challenge is sewing the curves with no puckers.  I matched and pinned up the notches.  Is it possible to fit these pieces together?

You bet with pins and clipping, and it is not difficult to do.  Falls into place quite nicely.

Once I was happy with the fit, I serged all the seams.  In reality I sewed all the vertical seams three darn times.  At least I am getting a summer blouse out of the process instead of a muslin that I would never wear; and hopefully, a perfect fitting dress.